Honeymoon Stop 3--Honolulu

At the USS Missouri at Pearl Harbor

For me, Honolulu brought back memories of the two weeks I had spent there five summers ago with my sister and her now-husband. I remembered lazy days at the beach, snorkeling, fresh fruit, Pearl Harbor, Guiness Shakes and rainbows. Sure enough, within minutes of landing in Honolulu, we saw not one but two rainbows.

Although we had been in Hawaii for about two weeks by the time we arrived in Honolulu, we had yet to eat what I would consider authentic Hawaiian food. (Our luau meal at the St. Regis on Kaua'i did not count.) After some search triangulation on Yelp, Urban Spoon and Trip Advisor, we settled on Ono's Hawaiian Foods, less than a mile from the Marriott on Waikiki Beach where we were staying.

Full disclosure: Ono's fits the definition of a hole-in-the-wall restaurant to a tee. It's a small space with seats for about 25 guests. Yellowing photos of satisfied patrons and restaurant critics, including Anthony Bourdain and the New York Times, decorate the walls.

We waited for our table outside of the restaurant while the owner told us stories and gave us tips on what to eat. Once inside, we settled on the Pork Plate and a beef soup with watercress. On a busy Saturday night, Ono's was out of its specialty, the laulau, so we came back on Monday afternoon.

The plate dishes come with many sides and we were stuffed with the Pork Plate and the a la carte soup. Our food was served in record speed and even Z, initially skeptical of Hawaiian food, agreed that Ono's was on of the best meals we ate in Hawaii.

Spread of food at Ono's, on our first visit

With the owner at Ono's

We ate another delicious meal at Little Noodle House in Chinatown after we visited Pearl Harbor. Honolulu's Chinatown is one of the largest in the U.S. and Chinatown anywhere can be overwhelming if you don't know where to eat, so, again, we triangulated with a few user-review websites. The steady crowd of customers late on a Sunday afternoon helped to validate our decision. We ordered a Hong Kong noodle dish with curry and a half duck with rice.

No visit to Honolulu is complete without spending time on Waikiki Beach, seeing Pearl Harbor and hiking up Diamondhead. Unless you go just after the park opens, Diamondhead is always busy and is often filled with visitors who are ill-prepared for the hike. Although, the hike is short (about 1.6 miles round trip), it is steep and parts are narrow.

Well worth the walk--views from the top of Diamondhead

We waited until the day-of to try to get tickets to see the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor. If you're going on Father's Day, this is not recommended. By the time we arrived, the national park that administers the site was out of tickets. We went to see the USS Bowfin (submarine) and the USS Missouri (battleship) instead.

Obviously, these are two very different ships, and what struck me most was how different the crew spaces are on each ship. It's a starker difference than living in an apartment in Manhattan and living in an apartment in almost any other city in the U.S.

Honeymoon Stop 2--Maui

A pleasant surprise at the Maui airport--leis courtesy Katey, Paul, Ethan & Piper

After a fabulous week on Kaua'i, a welcome greeting at the Maui airport and high marks from many people we know who have visited Maui, we had high expectations for our time there. And you know what they say about high expectations...

In general, we found Maui to be much more developed and touristy than Kaua'i. The hiking isn't nearly as good, and while the food may be a little better, it's still overpriced. 

While Maui may not have met our expectations, our time there wasn't wasted. The day after we arrived, our concierge at the Westin directed us to a hike on an old golf course. After a leisurely brunch at the Ka'anapali Beach Hotel, we put on our hiking shoes. Despite a steep uphill climb at the beginning, the hike wasn't particularly challenging.

We chose the 3.5 mile hike, with some off-road additions

Later in the week, in an effort to avoid driving two hours to hike on the eastern side of the island, we hiked the Lahaina Pali Trail. This trail is accessible from Highway 30 and follows a ridge with spectacular views of both Maalaea and Kahului Bays. This hike is longer--more than five miles one way--and all sun.

Once we completed the Village Walking Trails hike, we continued around the northern part of the island in search of more adventure. We hiked down to the Nakalele Blowhole and the lighthouse near it. While I was leery about going down to the blowhole, I'm glad we did. It's an awesome sight, one that I couldn't experience from 200 feet away. We kept a safe distance away from the hole itself. Locals told us that tourists still die at the blowhole every year after they get too close.

Near the Nakalele Blowhole

At the blowhole, off to the left

Fascinating, yet bug-ridden forest we discovered after our trip to the blowhole

Maui is home to a large national park, Haleakala National Park, which has an entrance near the end of the Road to Hana and another entrance at one of the highest points on the island, the Haleakala Crater.  The summit exceeds 10,000 feet.

Z and I before some hiking on the crater

Beginning our hike on the crater

You could spend days hiking in the park. In fact, we picked up a hitchhiker who was doing just that--hiking with friends and his kids from one cabin to the next at the park. We opted for a shorter hike because we had dinner reservations at the infamous Mama's Fish House.

Waiting for our table at Mama's

Everyone we spoke with who has been to Maui told us we had to go to Mama's. Founded in 1973, it's still one of the most popular restaurants on the island, probably in all of Hawaii, and cooks up some great food. Our meal was one of the best we ate in Hawaii, but it was the atmosphere and the ambiance that made the meal special.

Our table at Mama's, overlooking the beach and ocean

Spread of food at Mama's, whole fish, macadamia-encrusted stuffed fish

Z devoured his whole fish

On our way to the crater, we stopped at the Ali'i Kula Lavendar farm to stretch our legs and sample some delectable lavender creations, like lavender lemonade, a dark chocolate lavender brownie and dark chocolate with lavender essence. Yum! The farm isn't large, but it's a great place to stop enroute to the crater. Entry costs just $3 per person.

Stopping for a moment of zen amidst the lavender

This honeymoon is a trip of "firsts". Z's first time in Hawaii and our first time in most of the countries we're visiting. It's also a trip of first experiences, like shooting a gun. I never thought I would shoot a gun on my honeymoon, but, then again, I never planned on a 10-week honeymoon.

On the boat to La'nai

We took a ferry boat to the small island of La'nai, less than eight miles from Maui. La'nai is home to two Four Seasons properties, but looked deserted until we got around the southern part of the island to the harbor. After we landed, we took a quick transfer to the Four Seasons Lodge at Koele to wait for our shooting tour.

The Lodge at Koele is a beautiful property. I imagine a stay there would be incredibly relaxing, but that I would get bored after a couple of days.

Orchid house at the Four Seasons Lodge at Koele

Hawaii has perfect growing conditions for orchids

Z catches up on the news with his new feline friend

Shooting a gun is serious business and our instructor made sure we followed all gun safety regulations before he let us lose on the range.

Ready to hit the course!

Z hones in on his target

All safe at the end of our adventure

While on Maui, we knew we had to drive the Road to Hana. But rather than seeing all of the sites on the drive twice, we started the road in reverse, west of Hana and Kaupo from the Piilani Highway.

At Wailua Falls

We stopped at a cave, where Z did some cave swimming

In Hana and not far from Hana Beach Park, we found a delicious Thai restaurant. Hana offers many Thai restaurants, but the one we settled on was Nutcharee's Authentic Thai Food. It features a partially outdoor kitchen and a dining area covered by a tent, which we appreciated given the frequent downpours. Our dishes--Massaman Curry with chicken for me and a steak noodle dish with lots of chilies for Ziv--had plenty of flavor without the grease that often appears in Thai food.

Since he first read about lava tubes on Maui, Z wanted to see them and tick another "firsts" experience off his list. He had his chance on our Road to Hana tour.

Stalactites inside the lava tubes

One week on Maui was plenty and by the end of the week we found ourselves missing the ruggedness and adventure of Kaua'i.

Honeymoon Stop 1--Kaua'i

Kaua'i was exactly what Z and I needed after our wedding and our crazy month of May. Adventurous hikes, beautiful water, fresh seafood and early bedtimes, thanks to the roosters who woke us by 7 a.m., filled our days. Unlike most of Maui, much of Kaua'i is less developed, less touristy and more off-the-beaten path. Despite the major hotels that have found their way to Kaua'i, it still has a bit of a hippy vibe. As some locals would say, it's the "real Hawaii."

Just another day on Kaua'i--a chicken and a rooster scope out my parking spot

On this visit, one of our favorite activities was taking a tour of the Na Pali Coast, the northern coast of the island. We saw beautiful waterfalls and mountains and learned a bit about the history of the coast. We stopped for a brief snorkel before we ate lunch on the boat. While we did see some fish and one small sea turtle, the water was too rough to see much. We saw many more turtles when we rented stand-up paddleboards and took a trip up the Hanalei River.

Arched rock on the Na Pali Coast

Ziv stopping for a snorkel

One of the many beautiful waterfalls on the Na Pali Coast

From the concierge at the hotel to all of the locals we talked with, they all recommended hik to Hanakapiai Falls. This hike is not for the faint-of-heart or out-of-shape. Roundtrip is about eight miles, through narrow, rocky passages that can become muddy when wet. It's mostly uphill on the way in, which makes for a helpful downhill on the way back.

My injury on the way to the falls

The reward, of course, is seeing the beautiful falls and, if you're up for it and warm-blooded, swimming in them. The entire round trip hike, including an hour or so for lunch and swimming, took us just over six hours.

Hanakapiai Falls

Ziv swimming in the falls

The day after our hike to the falls, we decided to give our legs a rest and visited the Princeville Botanical Gardens for a tour of some of the flora on Kaua'i. A tour of the privately-owned gardens also features a chocolate tasting, including some of the chocolate grown and made at the gardens. The only downside of the garden tour: mosquitoes! They were everywhere. And they loved us.

Cocoa beans at the gardens

One of the many beautiful flowers on our tour

Waimea Canyon was unlike anything else we saw on Kaua'i. The canyon itself, dubbed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, is impressive. It's desolate and falls about 3,000 feet from its height. The hiking around the canyon is even more impressive. Our hike, on the north end of the canyon, brought us back to prehistoric times. We saw the ocean on the west, the canyon on the east, and a remote, cloud and forest covered trail in the middle.

At Waimea Canyon

Clouds shroud our view as we begin our hike

Some of the terrain on our hike

On the way to Waimea Canyon, we stopped at Kaua'i Coffee Company to sample some beans and take a brief tour. While we weren't blown away by the coffee, it was a fun stop on the way to the canyon and offered an interesting overview of what has become a major industry on Kaua'i.

One of the only downsides of Kaua'i is that it doesn't offer a lot of dining options. Being an island, the food is also expensive. Our favorite meal on Kaua'i was the Sunday brunch we stumbled upon at the Westin. The spead offered plenty of fresh veggies, fruits, meats and pastries and, what turned out to be, the best poke of our Hawaiian adventure. This poke was super-fresh and elegantly simple in its preparation--a bit of soy sauce, some sesame seeds and green onions.

We also found some great poke at Foodland Supermarket, a major chain on the islands. The friendly staff at Foodland let us sample different poke preparations before deciding on our favorites. This poke proved to be an easy, simple dinner several nights on Kaua'i and Maui.

We spent seven nights and about six days on the island and were able to see most of the major highlights in that time. If we had more time, we agreed that Waimea Canyon and the Na Pali Coast would be great places to do more hiking. We'll save that for our next visit.  

Extended Honeymoon!!

After a stressful month of May--quitting my job and wrapping up work (me), wrapping up a project (Z), finalizing our wedding, getting married (!!) and packing up our apartment, Z and I are livin' the dream. Really. We're traveling around the world. Literally.

Until we have a home again and I can begin to explore whatever city we land in (an unknown at this point), this blog will serve to document our adventures. More to come, but to preview what's in store: We started in Kaua'i, which we loved. From the hiking to the laid-back culture, Kaua'i was our favorite of the Hawaii Islands we visited. For us, Maui was nothing special, and Honolulu on O'ahu has been a great city to spend a couple of days in. We've enjoyed Pearl Harbor and have found lots of good eats at hole-in-the-wall spots.

Until the next post, here's one of my favorite pics from our travels so far.

Before a day of boating and snorkeling on Kaua'i's Na Pali Coast

Fabulous Fusion at Fat Rice

Created by the Xmarx clan, Fat Rice has gotten rave reviews since it opened in 2012. Spoiler alert: This will be another rave review.

Our mistake was going with a party of three around 7:30 p.m. on a Saturday evening in late winter. Needless to say we ended up waiting more than an hour for a non-bar table. (Fat Rice does not take reservations, nor does it accept parties greater than six.) The benefit of all this waiting was at the end of the evening we got to hang out with Abe, one of the owners, and learn about how he and Adrienne, the other owner, came up with their restaurant concept and menu. They went to Macau and ate themselves silly for four days straight. Sounds like the perfect vacation to me!

While we waited for our table, we indulged at the bar. The drinks were all on the strong-side, but while most had a balance between alcohol and other mixers (ginger, saffron and mint in the GSP, for example), the Traderoute cocktail really knocked me down. I had to cave in and return it to the bartender in favor of something more my speed, like the Salty Hound with vodka, grapefruit and preserved salted plum.

Fat Rice changes its menu often and at the time of this post is now onto a spring-summertime menu, but I am certain that the Arroz Gordo (translated: Fat Rice) is as delicious as it was in winter as it will be in the summer. Think of a big pot of delicious things like chicken sausage, dugenese crabs, saffon-infused rice, peppers, tomotoes, and more! coming together to create a perfect balance of flavors. 

When you go, and you should go soon, be sure to save room for dessert. Whether you order the Pineapple Upside Down Cake or the Winter Fruit in Syrup, it won't disappoint.