Since Balena opened in the middle of March, critics have given it nothing but rave reviews. (Four stars from TimeOut Chicago, the subsequent posting on Eater Chicago, a write up in Daily Candy Chicago) This combined with the backing of The Bristol and The Boka Group, (Think: GT Fish & Oyster, Girl & the Goat, Perennial Virant and, of course, Boka) gave me high expectations for my meal. Perhaps too high.
On a busy Friday night in early May, we had to wait about 15 minutes after our 9 p.m. reservation. Especially for a new restaurant, I consider that on-time. We got a table for three on the mezzanine floor, near the kitchen. If you didn't know Balena occupies the same space that Landmark Bar & Grill occupied until mid-2011, you'd never guess. The space has been transformed beautifully to look like a rustic Italian farmhouse.
The wine list is exhaustive and almost exclusively Italian, with a couple of bottles from Slovenia, Greece, Lebanon and Israel thrown in. I tried a glass of Sangiovese from Lazio, while Z tried a glass from Tuscany. Neither glass was bad, but I think mine was better.
We started with the Tuscan Kale Salad and a burrata with beets, which seems to have disappeared from the online menu. I liked both. The kale salad had a pleasant citrus flavor and the beets were perfectly cooked. Next came the Tagliolini Nero with Crab, Sea Urchin and Chile. Z and I both love uni (sea urchin), but had never tried it in pasta. The dish was good, just a touch too salty and could have used more sea urchin. I loved the crust on my pizza. It was appropriately salty and crispy and very flavorful. The ingredients on the pizza itself, pancetta with some vegetables (also no longer on the online menu) were just o.k.
Nothing at Balena was disappointing, but only the pizza crust made me want to come back for more. But that's enough to entice me to come back. That and the other delectable-looking dishes that caught my eye--charred quail, short ribs and whole roasted fish. With all of the recent press, getting a table may be another story.
No comments:
Post a Comment