2 Sparrows Brunch Redux

I first wrote about 2 Sparrows in early May. At the time it seemed to be the hot spot for brunch in north Lincoln Park. We left after the first visit feeling like the food had potential, but that it feel short. Nevertheless, given the reputation of its management team and how recently it had opened (September 2011), we thought we should give it another chance.

We went again last weekend, when Z's dad was in town for a visit. After picking up coffee from BowTruss (more on that in another post), we arrived at 2 Sparrows around noon on Saturday. 2 Sparrows does not take reservations, so the three of us waited about 20 minutes for a table. 

We scoured the menu while we were waiting for our table. When we sat down, I quickly ordered an orange juice and a Chile Relleno. 2 Sparrows has an orange juicer, so you know the juice is going to be fresh and delicious. My chile relleno came fried and stuffed with ooey gooey cheese, served on eggs scrambled with onions and peppers. I had high hopes for the chile. Unfortunately, after several bites, the fried dough became overpowering and the entire dish could have used more spice and flavor.

Z ordered the Bloody Norseman--2 Sparrows' version of a Bloody Mary complete with Beef Jerky and housemade bloody mix--and he and his dad each ordered the Duck Hash. The Bloody Norseman was a much stiffer drink than your average Bloody Mary and not nearly as smooth. While the Duck Hash wasn't as disappointing as my Chile Relleno, it's not reason enough to go back to 2 Sparrows. With all of the great brunch spots in Lincoln Park, including newcomer The Peasantry just around the corner, we can cross 2 Sparrows off of our list.

A Little Birdy Told Me about a Hot Brunch Spot in Lincoln Park...

Wall of canning jars just inside the entrance at 2 Sparrows

Plan your visit to 2 Sparrows strategically. Despite opening more than seven months ago in September 2011, this popular brunch spot is still mobbed around weekend brunch hours and doesn't take reservations. Z and I tried to go one weekend and were told we would wait more than an hour. We tried again the next Sunday around 2 p.m. and waited just a few minutes. Note: This is a risky proposition; 2 Sparrows closes at 3 p.m. every day.

Given the amount of press the restaurant has earned and the track record of its culinary and management team, we had high expectations for 2 Sparrows. Z, who naturally gravitates toward breakfast sandwiches, ordered the Belly Sandwich. The sandwich looked beautiful--a fluffy biscuit hugged pork belly, a sunny-side up egg and pickled onions. But looks aren't everything. Z said the biscuit provided too much bread, masking the flavors of the sandwich.

My Chilaquiles were equally uninspiring. I liked the crisp corn tortilla chips, but found the tomatillo salsa too limey. We did enjoy our coffee.

One data point isn't enough to write off a restaurant, so we will be back to 2 Sparrows--if we can get a table.